Monday, December 22, 2008

The Origin of Dusun and Kadazan

I 've read this..too interesting. so i just want to share with you... maybe useful to you...

Source:http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Academy/7637/kadazanDusun.html

POPULAR LEGENDS AMONG KADAZAN-DUSUNS'

It is a sad reality that the true account of our Kadazan/Dusuns' origin and historical background has been buried lost in the unwritten past. Today all that remain are social scientists' theories and legendary tales which are yet to be married to produce focal points of dependable commonalties. The purpose of representing the legendary tales regarding Kadazan/Dusuns' origin is for us to have at least a basis to re-visit our past possibilities wherein perhaps some scientists will burst into the unknown to clarify our origin-identity crisis.

The Legend of NUNUK RAGANG

This is the place once stood a giant Nunuk Ragang, now replaced with a faux giant concrete tree for remembrance.

Locally, the unwritten history of the Kadazan/Dusuns has been orally transmitted from generation to generation in legendary tales. A lucky catch of this generation is the legend that the Kadazan/Dusuns originated from "Nunuk Ragang" which can roughly be located to-day at Tampias, where two rivers (Liwagu and Gelibang) meet to the East of Ranau and Tambunan. "Nunuk" is a Kadazan/Dusun word for a Banyan Tree. "Ragang" comes from the Kadazan/Dusun word "Aragang or Aagang" which means red. Nunuk look like giant mangroves with highly developed buttress stems with deep indentions that provide good natural shelters. The Nunuk Ragang or Red Banyan tree as told by the old folks, Widu Tambunan measured six out-stretched arms in circumference. Its canopy top was estimated to be able to shelter under its seven joined Kadazan/Dusuns' huts. ( A hut measures 12 by 20 feet).

Its numerous branches and giant thick foliage provided for ideal shelter and play-grounds of wild life, birds, insects and even spirits according to local beliefs. When the morning sun rose, the Nunuk Ragang settlers would climb to the branches of the Nunuk tree to bask in the sun and then enjoy plunging into the great cool river pool below. It was believed that the roots of the Nunuk tree produced red latex that gave the pool not only the reddish coloration but also its medicinal value. Thus the name Nunuk Ragang. In fact the Nunuk's latex is still used to treat rashes and other minor skin diseases.

The early Kadazan/Dusuns' community at Nunuk Ragang lived a carefree life, enjoying the abundant supply of food and other basic necessities from the richness of nature that surrounded them. The legend relates that the Chinese adventurers from Kinabatangan and Labuk areas had their first encounter with the Kadazan/Dusuns. This was followed up by the marriage of the daughter of the Kadazan/Dusun chief to one of the Chinese heroes, who were rich enough to afford the dowry of 7 huge jars plus copper and silver wares.

The population increased by leaps and bound. It became more difficult to get food from nearby. The river had considerably eroded its banks and the Nunuk Ragang began to bend lower and lower into the river pool. The Chief then instructed his men into expeditions to look for new suitable settlements. The Kadazan/Dusun migration movement thus began towards the west to Tambunan, Ranau, Penampang and towards the east to Labuk and beyond to where the Kadazan/Dusuns are found at present. River tributaries became the principal guides to the direction of travelling. The expeditions occurred in groups and therefore had multi-destinations. Each group formed their own long house for unity and strength against wild beasts and intrusions by other communal groupings. As they spread west wards the Kadazan/Dusuns met the Bruneis and other settlers of the West Coast. Barter trade occurred from which the Kadazan/Dusuns got their gongs, copper and silver girdles, necklaces and bangles from the Bruneis. Where the dispute over territorial matters occurred it often ended into inter-communal warfare with the use of "Gayangs" (long-head-hunting knives) and blowpipes with poisoned darts. Head-hunting worsened when groups join together to form larger group to attack another. The advent of the Bajaus referred to by the old folks as "Sama" under the famous Colonial Rebel, Mat Salleh further fanned, inter-communal head-hunting activities for Mat Salleh's men sided with some communal groups while plundering others. It was only during the advent of the British that head-hunting died down due to better peace and order condition. And according to old folk’s story, British had taken Ibans warriors to Sabah to fight for Mat Salleh. After the Mat Salleh epoch, some of the ibans work for Timber Company here and married with locals and most of their descendant can be trace down somewhere in Labuk and Beluran.

The word "DUSUN" is a Brunei-Malay word for a mixed form usually identified with Dusun People - "Farmer". Later, the British adopted the word "DUSUN" to describe the people. Bruneian called the local tribe people as Dusun because most of them are farmers.

Some says that the word Kadazan was a late conception by the educated locals to liberate themselves from the word "Dusun" which was regarded as low class and primitive people, the late Tun Fuad Stephens coined the word to uplift the image of the locals in 1963. Especially because Penampang was one of the nearest Tamu Centre - "Open Market", besides being close to Towns (kakadazan). The first Tamu centre was situated in Inobong Penampang. The Bobolian or Bobohizan (priestesses) say that the meaning of ‘Kadazan’ is Tuhun - in english 'the people'.. But according to the Kadazan folks in Penampang, they claimed that "Kadazan" exists even before their great-grand-mother was born. I also found a "Kadazan Dictionary and Grammar" book, which dated in 1958. The book has been compiled and printed in Australia and the first page i saw a picture of Kangaroo with a words of "A Gift From The Australian People Under The Colombo Plan". When i lifted to page 9, i saw this interesting statement by the writer as quoting:- " When i came to North Borneo in 1932 and was detailed to work amongst the Kadazan in Penampang and surrounding village", meaning to say, the Kadazan name does exist even before 1963 ( as claimed by some). Kadazan was the name of the local community in Penampang.
Same goes with the Dusuns in Tambunan, Ranau,Telupid, Beluran, Tuaran, Papar etc. They have been called Dusun all the while, but nobody knows that actually, they have their own Identity name.

The Kadazan-Dusun Concept Of Creation;

It is said that in the beginning, "Kinorohingan" the God of the Kadazan-Dusuns and his wife Suminudu had an only daughter known as "Huminodu". Kinorohingan in his preparation for his creation of the Kadazan-Dusuns sacrificed his only daughter, Huminodun and planted, as if they were seeds, the various parts of her body. Rice then as staple food of not only the Kadazan-Dusun but also most Asians grew out of Huminodun's flesh. Other parts of her body became other varieties of foods for the people. Padi, because it is part of Huminodun, embodies a sacred spirit namely "Bambaazon" or in some dialects "Bambarayon" and so yearly during Harvest festival or "Kaamatan", the Kadazan-Dusuns regard it befitting to hold a feasting celebration to honour Bambaazon. In turn the Bambaazon is believed to better the people's harvests year after year.

Mount Kinabalu (Akin Nabalu - "The Ancestor's Mountain") - Sacred Mountain for the Kadazan/ Dusun.

Kadazan /Dusun believed that when they died, their spirit will be resting at Mount Kinabalu "Aki Nabalu", a place that konorohingan/God has given them to rest in peace. Locals believe that Ritual Ceremony or "sogit" should be practise every year to pray and or to naturalised the guiding spirit, but nowadays it was not practiced by the younger generation. Is it because of the existence of religion or disbelieved of the old adats??. It is sad that the younger generation always made a wrong perceptions about the old adats. It is not superstitious or wrong to believe that when you climb the mountain, you should not make a lot of noise, or chasing at an odd thing like animals and wandering around alone or taking stones or plants from the mountain, otherwise bad things may happen. It is said that the mountain is the home of the spirits and the spirits wants human to behave like how you want you guest behave when they visit your home. It is advisible but not a must, before you climb Mount Kinabalu, you ask for permission to the Aki spirit - the ancestor's spirit , that you're going to visit their place and ask for a safe journey.

Kapir (paganism) - The Kadazan/Dusuns' Religion: (Before Christianity & Islamic religion came)

The Kadazan individual family or community as a ritual isolate is in constant interaction with the spirit world. This involves a number of sacrificial ceremonies to create a balanced ritual state between the kadazan/Dusuns and those numbers of the spirit world.
The Kadazan/Dusuns believe in four principal spirits:
i) "Minamanngun / Kinorohingan or Kinoingan" - the Almighty creator
ii) "Koduduwo/ Koduduvo"- a living person's spirit
iii) "Tombiruoh/Tombivo" - the ghostly spirit of the dead
iv) "Rogon"- the evil spirits

The "Minamangun" is the overall creator and giver of all the forms of life and good materials. However the "Rogon" or the devils make use of God's creations inhabits them and make them Objects and tools for evil doings.
The Rogon's major occupation is to get served and pleased. They find pleasure in disturbing man's well being and his immediate possessions and source of livelihood and to make peace with them becomes a pre-dominant ritual practice of the priests and much lesser to thank Minamangun.

So like the Roman Catholic priests to represent Christ being his disciple, making use of the prayers to internalise his grace and worthiness, the priest or "bobolian/ Bobohizan" invoke the good spirit through her long beckoning prayers with the "rogon" member responsible for the mischievous acts.

The "Komburongoh" is a collection of metal pieces, tiny brass bells, a bead of uniformly cut stem of the swamp grass locally called "Komburongoh" itself , canine teeth of wild boars or bear, ring like stones and roots of some local trees. It is often referred to as " Sukuon" or consultants for thorough the "Komburongoh " and "Gonding" (only the metallic part of whole collection), the Minamangun may give explanation for the sickness or makes it possible for the devil to explain itself in a dialogue form.

Bobohizans intervention process and performance in relation to the sick

a) Calling a bobolian/Bobohizan or priestess:
When someone's illness is prolonged and severe in the home , a bobohizan or priestess is usually called upon. The bobohizan is fed with the latest information will give the bobohizan a good background in locating to the source of sickness.

b) Preliminary consultation with the "Susukuon" or the good spirit consultants.
Before the bobohizan goes to the next house of the sick person the next day, she has first got to consult her "Susukuon" the night before as to how best and with what offerings shall she approach the healing ceremony. She will then know ahead of time whether a chicken, a pig or even a buffalo is needed as a sacrifice. At some time, it may take only a simple "rinait" or prayer to attend to the sick.

C) Rinaits/Prayers
There are number of "Rinaits" or prayers that a bobohizan has to choose depending upon the cause of the sickness.
The basic is of course the "Popo'ontong" or "Sumuku" to get in touch with the good spirit consultants for further guidance of the "Susukuon", the bobohizan may proceed to any of the following or other form of prayers:

i) Modsoluhut do Sunduan-- Searching for a strayed "Kunduduwo" or spirit of the sick person and preparing for its home coming.
ii) Modsurung- Appeasing the evil spirits that cause person's sickness with the offerings.
iii) "Magambawon"- to reach the stage of "Rundukun" or being in a trance of possible dialogue.
with the evil sprit and the priestess who becomes an oracle for the people who ask questions about evil spirit's intentions. This is the longest performance of the priestess. It lasts for almost 24 hours.
iv) Mogidu do Timporon or Monkigit-cleaning the body from debris that has been induced into the body by evil spirits.
v) Mongkidu do Tumpadan - Curing a person from the effects of black magicians.
vi) Momupu do Namatai- To celebrate the sick person from the grip or disturbance of the dead.

Festivals
a) Moginakan/Great Feast:
This great feast was once a yearly affair for all the numbers of the Kadazan/Dusuns' extended family system. For this feast , only relatives are welcomed and therefore was a great chance for all those who are related to each other to get to know each other and later visit each other. Usually the extended family groups will support each other in times of difficulties. This feast May last for at least 5 days and 5 nights involving a number of buffaloes slaughtered and a Considerable amount of tapai.

b) Celebrations related to rice-cultivation:
i) Kapampanan do Mangasok This is the closing ceremony of the village padi-nursery making.
ii) Madsalud - Blessing of the newly transplanted rice harvesting.
iii) Posoitan do Bambaraion/Bambaazon - Harvest Festivals to give thanks to the rice spirits -"Bambaraion" and to invite them to feast together. The Bobolian leads the procession then to the padi store house and leave seven bamboo cups of first class tapai, seven boiled eggs, some chicken meat and rice on top of the barn of padi. The procession the proceeds back, to the main house to feast. Modern harvest festival now included buffalo race, beauty contest, arm wrestling and tapai drinking competitions as highlights.

In Tambunan, the harvest festival is partially a home-coming for the "bambaraion" of the family to the padi-store house where it will rest until the next rice-planting seasons comes.

Some days of observance
a) Full Moon
b) Death day till burial
c) Making the grave hut
d) On the day of preparing Tapai.

e) On ominous days:
- A millipede passes across the footpath
- When your feet got caught or hit stone on your way to wherever
- When you have a bad and heavy dream
- When you dream that you tooth got broken and you cry out loud - "Betoken somebody you know will die"
- When the blackbirds cry out as you enter the jungles - "Badluck is on the way"

After being treated by priestess for a day sometimes for three days one is not allowed to go out from the house.

"THE ORIGIN OF MAGAVAU"
"Magavau" varies in accordance with the different dialects and districts in the State. The belief however is the same. The Kadazans believe that in the beginning, the God of the Kadazan people called "KINOINGAN" and his wife "SUMINUNDU" had a daughter known as "HUMINODUN". Kinoingan in his preparation for his creation of the Kadazan people, sacrificed His only daughter, huminodun and planted, as if they were seeds, the various parts of the body so that food may grow out of the soil where it was planted, and that His people will not go hungry. Rice, then as the staple food of the Kadazans, as all Malaysians and most Asians, grew out of Hominodun/s flesh. The other parts of her body became other varieties of food for the Kadazans. Padi, because it is part of Huminodun embodies a spirit, known as "BAMBAZON" and from time to time the Kadazans have found it benefiting that this spirit should be honoured so that bigger and better harvest would be reaped every harvest season.
The thinking behind this is not hard to grasp. The importance of rice is self-evident, but underlying is the everlasting is the everlasting gratitude of the Kadazans to their Creator who sacrificed His only daughter in order to provide food for His people.

THE HONOURING OF BAMBAAZON
In preparation for the ceremony, the village priestess carefully select stalks of padi and ties them together just before the harvesting period. These padi stalks are left in the field and not to be cut or tampered with until after the harvesting is completed. The selected stalks of padi symbolise the Spirit of Padi, that is Bambaazon. As soon as the harvest is over these stalks are cut by the priestess and taken into the house of the owner of the field. The spirit is now in the house. Magavau will then take place when the padi is winnowed and stored away into the barns.

THE CEREMONY OF MAGAVAU
The ceremony of Magavau begins just after sunset. The Priestess and her attendants sit on the floor in the living room and start chanting ancient prayers to Bambaazon. This goes on far into the night thereafter the priestess and attendants stand up and circle slowly around the living room, still chanting. After a while they start to sing Songs of praise to Bambaazon. At this stage the men join in the circle singing together with the priestess and attendants. As they sing the stamp their feet on the floor in rhythmic timing and at regular intervals uttering the awe-in-sparing "Pangkis" which is the triumphant cry of the Kadazans. This ceremony will go on until break of dawn when preparations are made to feed Bambaazonn with the "habot" (fermented rice, with ingredients similar to tapai, prepared especially for the Bambaazon the previous evening) and tapai. The ceremony ends with merry making as a mark of thanksgiving. Bambaazon stays in the house, guarding the padi in the barn, until the next planting season when another ceremony known as "MONOGIT" is performed to take her to the padi fields.

THE HERITAGE OF GONGS
The late Chief Priestess bobohizan, Bianti Moujing of Kampung Kandazon and the High Priestess bobohizan, Binjulin Sigayun of Kampung Hungab were consulted during their heydays on the evolution of gongs and the beats rhythm. recently, OKK Datuk Jintol Mogunting, the former District Native Chief of Penampang, who is an authority on the traditional culture and customs was also consulted and he gave similar narration of the legend that was used for centuries of generations. It was said that after the resurrection of Huminodun from the original Bambaazon, the lifestyle of the Nunukragang people as they were then known, began to improve as there was abundant supply of rice. The legend goes on to narrate that Huminodun produced the bobohizan and taught them the art of rites, ritual practices and ceremonies, taboos, traditional cultures including the art of gong beating and the sumazau dance. It was also said that during the period of Nunukragang the bobohizan taught the people to fashion bamboo's into various lengths shapes and sizes and arranged them into an ensemble of seven musical instruments, the seventh item being the drum or gandang, which we know today as tongkungon, tongunggu and tongunggak. The bobohizan then taught the people the gong beat rhythm, known today as magagung, botibas and dunsai. Another musical instrument, the kulintangan; akin to the xylophone, would be played as an accompaniment to the magagung.
In the late 18th century, the Brunei traders introduced brass gong badils (canons) and brasswares in North Borneo (Sabah). The Kadazandusun were fascinated with these new brass items for they perceived the brasswares elegant and gong sound melodious. They then began to acquire collections of these brass times as family heirlooms and the gongs were arranged into the typical ensemble of seven instruments, to replace the bamboo gongs. Since then the gong beats and rhythm were improved for a variety usage.
The gong beats to accompany any ritual ceremonies are usually monotonous. As for weddings, festive occasions and welcoming receptions for dignitaries, the rhythm of the gong beat is exhilarating, melodious, lively and smooth. Sometimes the botibas gong beat is performed as variation. During funerals, the dunsai gong beat is very solemn and fearsome as mark of respect for the dead. The single beat of a solitary gong at short intervals is a signal for emergencies such as house on fire and missing persons lost in the jungle or drowning.
However, it is not surprising that not all the Kadazandusun people are skilful in gong beating. It would require one long practice to gain experience. It is even more disheartening to note that not many Kadazandusun youths today are inclined to pursue knowledge in these two cultural issues.
Thus magagung competitions and sumazau competitions are organised at the village level not only to mark the Kaamatan celebrations but more so to preserve and to promote the culture of Kadazandusun music and dance. Eventually, the competitions are held at district level where the Sumazau competitions were judged according to its choreography and the magagung according to the gong beats, rhythm and tempo.
In the early 1900, these brass items were valuable properties and became a symbol of family wealth. Once, they were highly in demand as dowries for marriage. Therefore, the families who were lacking these properties would face difficulty in complying with the requirements for dowry. They would be compelled to search for these items elsewhere before the wedding. This custom still prevails in certain districts. However, many districts have most of the dowry converted into cash.
As for the badil, brassware and especially the gongs, they have become priceless and rare commodities mainly because they are very close to extinction as they are no longer available elsewhere. An ordinary set of gongs would cost about RM10,000 whereas the best set with high quality sound would cost around RM15,000.
Actually, the original brass gongs as they are popularly known, are not thoroughly made of brass. These gongs actually comprise of composites of iron, brass and copper thus a smooth, reverberating and xylophonic tone is produced. Gongs made entirely of brass are not popular because the sound produced is flatsonic resonance and therefore not preferred by many.
Kulintangan or miniature gongs consist of nine ensemble and according to preference, may be performed simultaneously with the gong to enhance the gong music.
The latest type of gongs are made entirely of flat iron sheets, produced in Kudat. These are usually available at the weekend market or Tamu in Donggongon, Penampang. Each set would cost between RM700 to RM1500. The sound quality of these gongs are more like cymbals clashing and shrills.
Those who are interested to know the best quality melody gongs, you may drop by to any magagung and sumazau competitions during Harvest Festival/Kaamatan on 30th to 31st May every year at Kadazan Dusun Central Association (KDCA) in Penampang.

END

1

Saturday, November 29, 2008

Tambunan Homestay

The Villages of Tambunan are nestled in a valley on the interior side of the Crocker Range, completely hidden from the South China Sea and the outside world. Tambunan Valley remains a very authentic interior region of Borneo, being approximately 1.5hours drive from the States Capital Kota Kinabalu . Tambunan is well known in Sabah for its picturesque landscapes and terraced rice fields, clear mountain streams, and cultural practices dating back many centuries. Many traditional cultural practices and ceremonies still take place even in the modern context of the 21st Century. Alongside this many traditional economic activities and village scale trade can still found flourishing in the area. A stay in the Tambunan Village Homestay is sure to uncover some unique and fascinating experiences. Visitors should come prepared for an amazing cultural experience the beautiful setting of the Tambunan Valley.

Located in Keranaan Village not far from the Township of Tambunan, the Tambunan Village Homestay Programhas 10 participating families, all certified by the Malaysia

Ministry of Tourism.

The program is coordinated by Joanna Kitingan, and is closely linked to the Tambunan Valley Resort Centre (TVRC).

Tambunan Village Homestay Program offers unique live-in experiences for visitors to stay with a local hostfamily in their home. This means participants will eat locally cooked meals (mostly traditional ingredients), and learn to live like the locals.

The participating Homestay Host Families will provide a spare rooms for guests in their homes, whereby bathroom facilities are usually shared with the host family.

Programs can be tailor made to suit different groups interests and available time. Two potential "mock-up"programs.


Some of the view of Tambunan
Padi field known as Tabasan..
some of the paddy. baru sija kana tanam..isn't beauty??
see, enjoy bah mereka..huhu
Activities
The Following Activities can be incorporated into the
homestay programs at Tambunan Village Homestay.
  • Planting or Harvesting in Rice Fields
  • Traditional Rice Wine Making
  • Riding buffalo
  • Traditional Cooking
  • Harvesting Forest Vegetables
  • Visit Local Markets
  • Visit Local Bamboo Factory
  • Jungle Trekking
  • Observing worlds largest flower Rafflesia
  • Swimming in cool mountain streams
  • Traditional music & dance performances

Kulabut market ( the Tuhau Centre)
Jambatan gantung
momonsoi bangkala (traditional Fish Trap)

Playing Gongs
yeah, finally i can sense the Tuhau
kihoi..aramai tii..makan ramai2,

2D/1N PROGRAM (Package)
Day 1
Arrived at Kg. Keranaan & traditional welcoming
Meet host family
Visit to bamboo factory
Visit TVRC for fish feeding
Join the Cultural Dance (for Min 30 pax only)
Dinner with host family (D)

Day 2
Break Fast with host family (B)
Visit the Tambunan Town, Market, & Gong Stone
Visit No. 1 Lihing (Rice Wine) Factory
Lunch with host family (L)
Farewell Party & give appreciation
Back to Kota Kinabalu

RATE AS PER ABOVE ITINERARY (2D1N):
RM120.00 PER PERSON (MIN. 30 PAX)


3D/2N PROGRAM (Package)
Day 1
Arrived at Kg. Keranaan Walai Tokou meeting point
Traditional welcoming & meet host family
Visit to the Bamboo Factory (Making)
Visit TVRC fish feeding
Dinner with host family (D)
Getting to know family history and History of Tambunan


Day 2
Break Fast with host family (B)
Jungle upstream trekking to Tandarason,
Enjoy a cool swim
Enjoy drinking water from tree and bamboos
Picnic lunch by the clear stream
Dinner with host family (D)
Join the Cultural Dance (for min. 30 pax only)

Day 3
Break Fast with host family (B)
Visit the Tambunan Town, Market, & Gong Stone
Visit No. 1 Lihing (Rice Wine) Factory
Lunch with host family (L)
Farewell Party & give appreciation
Back to Kota Kinabalu

RATE AS PER THE ABOVE ITINERARY (3D2N):
RM240.00 PERSON (MIN. 30 PAX)


Contact details,

Coordinator: Mdm. Joanna Kitingan



Email Contact 1: joannakitingan@yahoo.com
Email Contact 2: avanus7@yahoo.com

Postal Address: Tambunan Village Homestay
C/ G192 Lorong Cempaka
KG.Contoh Petagas
88200 KOTA KINABALU

Home Tel : +60 88 764052
H/P (Mobile): +60 14 3580853 / +60 14 6555043
Fax : +60 88 230714



Sunday, November 9, 2008

Climbing Mount Trusmadi, The Second highest mountain in Malaysia.


As we know, Mount Trusmadi is the second tallest mountain in Malaysia. Even it is a second highest in Malaysia, less people climbed it. what i heard is, climbing Mount Trusmadi is much harder than climbing Mount Kinabalu. is is because, this mountain have less facilities.

Not much people where is mount Trus Madi. Here is some information about Trus madi.

Trusmadi Mount, measuring at 2,462m, is Malaysia’s second highest mountain after Gunung Kinabalu but is said to offer a much more challenging climb. Its richly forested slopes, inhabited by a myriad species of birds and animals, are a trekker's dream."

Trusmadi Mount, at 2,462m or 8,669ft, is Malaysia’s second highest mountain after Gunung Kinabalu (4,101m or 13.433ft) but is much tougher to climb. It lies between the districts of Tambunan to the north and Keningau to the south (in the state of Sabah in Borneo).


Here i found an intersting thoughts or writing from internet. But i dunno who this person. i call him MR Climbers.. sorry man, i'm gonna share this to the other. hehe..

Please read:

I received an email from my fellow doctor colleague, Ragu, last week about climbing the second highest mountain in Malaysia, Mount Trusmadi. Basically, he is a hardcore mountain climber and devoted his leisure time doing outdoor activities. He was asking whether we could plan our Mount Trusmadi climbing trip ourselves, rather than paying kind of “over priced” pre-prepared package by some of the tour operators around Sabah.

I said yes, but there are not much of valuable information around the internet as Trusmadi is not a tourist spot (not like Kinabalu). It is kind of Sabah’s best kept secret, and it is meant for hardcore mountain climbers. Ordinary tourist will find it very hard and boring. Anyway, if you are like Dr. Ragu (he is a plastic surgeon, like NIP/TUCK television series), here would be my personal tips on conquering Mount Trusmadi.

Few things that we need to remember:

  1. Mount Trusmadi is kind of ‘virgin’ mountain in Sabah. It is still under the Forestry Department, not under Sabah Parks like Kinabalu and Tambuyukon. So, the climbing permit must be acquired from the Forestry Department before you are allowed to climb. You need to request for the permit at least 2 weeks before you start the climb.
  2. It is even more challenging than Kinabalu, suitable for hard core mountain climbers. If you think that Kinabalu is tough, do not even think about this mountain.
  3. You can summit the peaks in 2d1 night, but you need to be really fit. Some climbers do it in 3d2n to spend more time with mother nature.
  4. You are going to travel through really rough terrain, mainly used for logging purposes, to get to the starting point in Kg. Kaingaran. You really need a sturdy 4wd to get there. Traveling from Tambunan (the small town which is near the mountain) will take about 1 hour.
  5. As it is a non-tourist mountain to climb, you have to bring along all your climbing gear - from your portable stove to leech socks to toilet paper.
  6. I must emphasize that Trusmadi is not for the faint hearted.

The best place to inquire about the trip up the mountain is from Tambunan Village Resort Center (TVRC), which is in err… Tambunan. They are now known as The Borneo Heritage Village. They are the best place for you to seek additional information for the climb, but unfortunately they do not have a good official website on that matter. Contact them at +6087-774076, or email at borneohv@streamyx.com. Otherwise, you can seek the available tour company who can provide you with the information package on the internet by just typing ‘mount trusmadi’ on Google Search. You can get the itinerary for 3d2n trip Mount Trusmadi on this and this page.

TVRC is can be appointed as the ‘basecamp’ of Mount Trusmadi. It has accommodations for climber to stay overnight before proceeding to the climb on the next day. They also can provide you with porters, guides, permits and foods up the mountain. The last time I called, you can also rent some of your climbing gear from them.

Basically, the things that you can ask TVRC for help are:

  1. Return transfer from KK International Airport to Tambunan (TVRC).
  2. Transport from TVRC to the starting point in Kg. Kaingaran using 4WD.
  3. Porters and Guides.
  4. Climbing permit from Forestry Department.
  5. Accommodation.

I think that by directly contacting them, you can save around 10-30% of the cost compared to having a tour operator to host your trip.






Mahua Waterfall Tambunan- Kg Patau


State Sabah
Location15 minutes from Tambunan
Coordinates N 5°40' E 116°22' (Tambunan)
Water SourceRiver
Waterfall ProfileVertical Fall
Accessibility6 km along a dirt road followed by an easy 15 minute walk

Leaving Tambunan in the direction of Ranau, you will reach Kg Patau after 10 or 15 minutes and see a sign post indicating a left turn to the Mahua Waterfall. (If you come from Kota Kinabalu, it would be about a 1 ½ hour ride).

After making that turn, you trundle along a dirt road for 6 km. The first stretch of the road is in relatively good condition, but it gets trickier the farther in you go. My guess is that an ordinary car would encounter difficulties in wet weather. We were in a 4WD, but because it was not one of those rugged 4 x 4 work horses, we did experience some sticky moments.

Eventually, we came to a large clearing along which a river rushed. This marked the end of the road. The track was rather muddy and to avoid getting our vehicle stuck, we walked the rest of the way in to the Mahua Sub-station which had been financed by the Japan International Co-operational Agency (JICA). A friendly caretaker there maintains an office and collects an entrance fee of RM3 per person. For that fee, you also get to use the extremely clean toilets.

left click for larger picture

Passing by a village on the dirt road to the Mahua Fall. Notice the pine tree.

left click for larger picture

The road ends here. Because it was muddy, we parked and walked in to the Mahua Sub-station which you can see in the far distance.

left click for larger picture

The trail to the waterfall. This is so well-marked and well-kept that it will be impossible to get lost.

The 500 metre walk along a distinct and well-maintained trail to the waterfall is an extremely pleasant stroll through a secondary forest of dipterocarp trees, undergrowth, ferns, shrubs and bamboo dense enough to shut out most of the sun’s heat. Butterflies, mainly the Tufted Jungle King, fluttering along the trail added flashes of colour to the otherwise intense green of the forest.

left click for larger picture

The river which runs by the trail.

left click for larger picture

Another view of the river.

left click for larger picture

Sungai Lobou

Two tributaries, the Sg Lobou and the Sg Kulanggi gush down as little waterfalls of their own to join the main river which is never out of sight or earshot.

left click for larger picture

Sungai Kulanggi

left click for larger picture

Some parts of the trail are cemented for easy access.

left click for larger picture

The dense dipterocarp forest through which the trail passes.

At the end of the trail, the Mahua Waterfall tumbles down in an agitated vertical column of water, sending up a continuous misty spray as it crashes into the pool below. The height of the Fall is uncertain. One source puts it as 9 metres, another 15 metres and yet another 17 metres. I’m not sure, too, whether the small pool is safe for swimming but I can imagine that the strong currents stirred up by the Fall would put paid to all such intentions.

left click for larger picture

The fall becomes visible

left click for larger picture

The Mahua Fall

left click for larger picture

The fall in all its glory

Shelters and benches are provided for picnickers. There were, however, only four other people besides us that day we went. Difficulty of access has probably discouraged many people from visiting the Fall which is not a bad thing considering the difficulty of maintaining cleanliness in the face of large crowds.

left click for larger picture

People pictured here to put the Mahua Fall in perspective

left click for larger picture

Around the Fall area are shelters, benches and picnic tables for picnickers

left click for larger picture

The river just below the Fall.

Several species of butterflies – a Monster Skipper, Black-Veined Mapwings, Blue Hedges, a Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing, a Red Helen and a Common Mormon – flitted about the pool area, congregating to share a drink.

left click for larger picture

Butterflies wetting their whistles at the water-soaked ground. Seen here are a Monster Slipper, Black-Veined Mapwings and Blue Hedges.

Although this was not a very extensive area, we surprised ourselves by spending about two hours there. Obviously, there is more to the Mahua Waterfall than what meets the eye.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Climbing Mount Trusmadi in Sabah, Malaysia


Trusmadi Mount, measuring at 2,462m, is Malaysia’s second highest mountain after Gunung Kinabalu but is said to offer a much more challenging climb. Its richly forested slopes, inhabited by a myriad species of birds and animals, are a trekker's dream."

Trusmadi Mount, at 2,462m or 8,669ft, is Malaysia’s second highest mountain after Gunung Kinabalu (4,101m or 13.433ft) but is much tougher to climb. It lies between the districts of Tambunan to the north and Keningau to the south (in the state of Sabah in Borneo).

Unlike Mount Kinabalu which is visited by thousands of people every year, Mount Trusmadi – situated some 70km southeast of Kota Kinabalu – is not a tourist mountain and is rarely visited. Until recently, only one or two expeditions climb the mountain each year.

The slopes of the mountain, which are covered with rich vegetation houses many species of birds, animals and plants, making it a trekker's haven.

The summit (of Mount Trusmadi) is reputed to have the best dawn view of Mount Kinabalu, which lies over 40km to the north. A unique pitcher plant, Nepenthes x trusmadiensis (a natural hybrid between Nepenthes lowii and Nepenthes edwardsiana) is found here and nowhere else.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Kawasan2 Menarik Tambunan


AIR TERJUN MAHUA

Air Terjun Mahua terletak di Kampung Patau kira-kira 12km dari Pekan Tambunan. 7km dari kampung Patau untuk sampai ke Pusat Informasi Pelancongan, pintu masuk ke Air Terjun Mahua.
Lokasi:-
Kampung Katagaian, Patau Tambunan
Daya Tarikan:-
Keaslian/Keunikan alam sekitar
Ketinggian air terjun lebih kurang 50 kaki
Tempahan dibuat melalui Majlis Daerah Tambunan

GUNUNG TRUSMADI

Anda boleh membuat pilihan destinasi di Tambunan dan kalau anda memilih untuk bergerak ke arah kampung Kaingaran, anda akan sampai di kaki Gunung Trus Madi setelah menempuh perjalanan sejauh 25km.Di tempat ini, anda akan merasa bertuah kerana sedang menjejakkan kaki Gunung Trus Madi gunung yang kedua tertinggi di Sabah selepas Gunung Kinabalu. Anda boleh meneruskan pengembaran sehingga ke puncak Trus Madi untuk menawan puncaknya pada ketinggian 8,690 kaki.
Lokasi:-
Hutan Simpanan Trusmadi Tambunan
Daya Tarikan:-
Keunikan Biodiversiti
Keadaan suhu yang sejuk
Merupakan gunung kedua tertinggi di Sabah/malaysia

BATU GONG

Lokasi:-
Kg. Solibog
Daya Tarikan:-
Seketul batu sebesar besen yang boleh menghasilkan satu set bunyi gong Kadazandusun apabila diketuk.

BATU BAJAU

Peranan batu bata dalam kehidupan manusia zaman silam telah banyak di lupakan ,malah kebanyakan generasi sekarang tidak lagi memahami sejarah dan fungsinya.Dalam keluaran kali ini beberapa buah batu yang masing masing mempunyai cerita ,sejarah dan peranan tersendirinya dimuatkan sebagai tetapan bersama.

BUNGA RAFFLESIA

Lokasi:-
Hutan Simpan Rafflesia, Tambunan
Daya Tarikan:-
Bunga Rafflesia
Air Terjun

TUGU PERINGATAN MAT SALLEH

Lokasi:-
Kg. Tibabar Tambunan
Daya Tarikan:-
Memerihalkan sejarah Mat Salleh Pahlawan Sabah

PUSAT INFORMASI RAFFLESIA

Sejauh kira-kira 80km perjalanan dari Bandaraya Kota Kinabalu, anda akan sampai di Pekan Tambunan, Pekan yang masih menampakkan persekitaran tradisional penduduknya, kadazandusun.Sebaik melepasi beberapa restoran dan motel seperti Gunung Emas, Puncak Damai dan Gunung Alab, anda akan sampai di Pusat Informasi Raffesia, pusat maklumat uang khusus membuka layanan kepada para pengunjung sepanjang masa-masa pejabat. Pusat Maklumat ini berada di sebuah kawasan Hutan Simpan Rafflesia yang turut memiliki pelbagai tumbuh-tumbuhan dara, bahan-bahan semulajadi yang sering dirujuk para pengunjung terutamanya di kalangan penyelidik.

Bungkau


The bungkau is the jaw harp of the Kadazan and Dusun people of Northern Sabah, Malaysia, located on the northeast coast of the island of Borneo. The bungkau is carved from polod palm stem, and it is either shaved or peeled to obtain a two toned design. Often bungkau are fine tuned with a piece of insect wax. Many bungkau have a bamboo tube as a container. Bungkau can be heard quite often at festivals in Sabah, and can be purchased at small traditional handicraft stores in Kota Kinabalu. This instrument was collected in Sabah in the mid 1990s.

Sompoton


Sompoton is a traditional Kadazan music instruments for the Dusun tribes in Sabah. Traditionally it was from Kampung Tikolod, Tambunan. It is now prevalent among Dusuns and Muruts. It is made of a double raft of eight bamboo pipes inserted into a gourd. Inside the gourd, seven of the pipes have small polod palm lamellae or sodi inserted into their sides and kept in place by beeswax or sopinit.

SPOTON2 The eighth soundless pipe is stopped up with sopinit. The player blows and sucks air through the gourd mouth-piece to activate the sodi. The musical sound produced can be likened to a cross between the sounds from a conventional mouth organ and a bagpipe, minus the latter's shrillness. Often it is played solo, for personal expression. If you are interest on this traditional Kadazan Dusun music instruments, you can visit any handicraft centre or Tamu in Sabah.

Monday, June 2, 2008

The KadazanDusun

This is the largest ethnic category in Sabah and is predominantly wet rice and hill rice cultivators. Their language belongs to the Dusunic family and shares a common animistic belief system with various customs and practices. Their ancient beliefs on the verity that everything has life - the rocks, trees, and rivers are all living things.

They have souls and spirits that must be appeased from time to time through specific rituals. In these modern times, some of the rituals are less performed accept during certain festivities.



Customs & Beliefs

Pesta Kaamatan or Harvest Festival is a unique celebration of Kadazandusun society. It's a celebration to honour the Rice Spirit - Bambaazon or Bambarayon and giving thanks for yet another bountiful year. The festival begins on the first of May at many district levels. The rites and customs of the Pesta Kaamatan is a tribal practice of Kadazandusun and also Murut peoples. The Bobohizan or Bobolian who are the High Priests or Priestesses (depending on the district/area undertaking the preservation) will conduct the ritual. In different districts, the priests or priestesses may be addressed to differently, for instance in Tambunan district they are known as Bobolian, in Tuaran as Tantagas and in Penampang as Bobohizan.

It is believed that rice in whatever form embodies Bambaazon that must be protected from harm. The homecoming of Babaazon is an integral part of the Harvest Festival. Ancient folklore tells of the ultimate deed of Kinoingan or Minamagun - The Almighty God or Creator, who sacrificed his only beloved daughter, Huminodun so that his people would have food. Various parts of her body were planted from which plants grew. During the Magavau ceremony, the Bobohizan will select some stalks of rice that are left undistributed until the harvest is over. In some districts, the chosen stalks are cut before the field is harvested and are then brought into the owner's house. The task of Bobohizan is to search and salvage the lost Bambaazon who are hurt or separated from the main mystical body. In the old days, this ceremony was often performed in freshly harvested fields during the first full moon after the harvest to invoke the rice spirit.

The language used by Bobohizan is archaic whose meanings have been buried in time and known only to the few remaining Bobohizan these days. The vital aspect of Magavau is the paraphernalia used to summon Bambaazon. The sacrament of Magavau may vary according to district practices but the ceremony always ends with food offerings to Bambaazon and merry making for the village folks.

The highlight of Pesta Kaamatan is the selection of the pageant queen or "Unduk Ngadau" which can be literally translated as "Zenith of the Sun". It conceptually derives from the sacrifice of Huminodun. The maiden who has the honour of being selected should bear semblance to Huminodun and will represent all that is virtuous in the revered Huminodun.

Wednesday, April 30, 2008

About Sabah


Location: Sabah is the second largest state in Malaysia, situated at the north of Borneo Island. Sabah has a heavily indented coastline of approximately 800 to 900 miles and is washed by the South China Sea in the west and north, the Sulu Sea in the northeast and the Celebes Sea in the east. Mount Kinabalu is the feature of Sabah as the tallest mountain in South East Asia standing at 4093 meters.

People: Sabah is a unique land, a melting pot of many indigenous and immigrant groups. The population comprises over 30 different races and over 80 different dialects, each group having its own colourful culture, tradition, festival and customs. The indigenous group include the Kadazan/Dusun, Bajau, Murut, Rungus, Lotud, Brunei, Orang Sungei, Kadayan, Bisaya and many other subgroups. The Chinese form the largest non-indigenous group.

Population: 2.52 million.

Capital: Kota Kinabalu City, the gateway to the rest of Sabah, is also the State Capital. Kota Kinabalu or K.K. as it is usually called, is relatively new as the original town was destroyed during the Second World War.

Language: Bahasa Melayu (Malay) is the official language, English is widely spoken, especially in business and tourism circles. Other languages include Chinese dialects, kadazan and several indigenous and dialects.

Religion: Malaysia's official religion is Sunni Islam, but freedom of worship is respected. In Sabah, major religions are Christianity (29%), Islam (26%) and Buddhism-Taoism (17%).

Government: Malaysia is a constitutional monarchy, with a unique system of rotation of Kings, chosen every 5 years among nine state hereditary rulers (Sultans). Parliament is elected every 5 years by universal suffrage and is headed by the Prime Minister. Borneo, as every other state, has an elected parliament headed by a Chief Minister.

Climate: Typical Equatorial Climate, daily temperatures range between 23 c and 32 c throughout the year in ;the lowlands. Rainfall is spread throughout the year, the wettest months (Landas season) being from November to February. Depending on the areas, rainfall averages between 2600 mm. and 4000 mm./year.


Flora & Fauna: About half of all living species are found in south-east Asia's jungles, the Planet's oldest. Borneo is still largely covered by primary jungles, many under National Park Status. Famous species include the Rafflesia Flower, Pitcher Plants, the Hornbill bird, the Orang Utan Ape and the Proboscis monkey, all protected.

Economy: Commodity based economy, Sabah being a major exporter of timber and agricultural products. Manufacturing is rapidly increasing, the emphasis being on processing of commodities and , for the future, electronics, information technology and bio-technology. Tourism is in a rising economy and main focus by the government.

Currency: Malaysian Ringgit (RM), very stable and fully convertible, no restrictions on import or export. Best to exchange at licensed money changers or banks, traveler cheques and major credit cards widely accepted. USD 1.00 = RM 2.50 (Approx.)

Working Hours: Government : 08:00 a.m. to 04:15 p.m., Private Sector : 09:00 a.m. to 05:00 p.m., Mondays to Fridays, Saturday half day. All shops would be open between 10:30 a.m. and 05:00 p.m., Monday to Saturday, but many open earlier and close later and are open on Sunday. Shopping complexes close at 09:00 p.m.

Entry Regulations: Visa free entry for holiday purposes (14 days to 3 months) is given to most nationalities. Best to check with Malaysian Diplomatic Missions for current situation. Passports must have 6 months validity.

Health Regulations: No vaccinations required, unless coming form Africa or South America (Yellow Fever). Most Tropical diseases eradicated, anti-malaria treatment not indispensable, malaria cases very rare in Borneo (most occur in logging camps and very remote areas).

Water: Safe to drink from the tap in towns. Hotels and restaurants provide boiled water. Bottled mineral water widely available.

Electric Current: 220 V/50 cycles , in areas not connected to the grid, generators are often used. Three pin plugs (not American plugs).

Dress Code & Clothing: Casual dress is the norm, light cotton clothing is recommended.

Shopping: Items such as films, batteries, torch lights, raincoats, slippers, etc. are available in all towns. Indigenous handicrafts and textiles, potteries, antiques, etc. are good bargains.

Safety: Borneo is probably one of the safest places on earth, crime rate is low, there are few dangerous animals in the jungles, general health is good, there are no earthquakes, volcanoes or cyclones and there is political stability, racial harmony and tolerance, no terrorism and no internal strife. Fortunately, Sabah does not experience any natural disaster or calamities. In fact it is under the typhoon belt (thus the name "Land Below The Wind") and is free from any climatic disturbances.